Keep Android Open

Remap ctrl+alt+shift+win keyboard shortcut

I actually used this shortcut to quickly open Office.com at work. But now it redirects on my account to Copilot and… yeah I don’t need it everywhere.

So how do we remap it? I tried with PowerToys but it seems to be reserved for Windows. But I found a registry solution with a .reg file

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Classes\ms-officeapp\Shell\Open\Command]
@="https://contoso.sharepoint.com/"

Replace YourURL or use rundll32 to deactivate it.

From OneNote to Joplin

I wanted to get rid of OneNote. There was no real evolution over the years and with Markdown based Notes, I can use them in the future everywhere. Well the long term goal is to get rid of Microsoft, but that’s a whole different story. So, I changed to Joplin.

I used the OneNote MD Exporter. It’s not perfect but at the time of writing still better than the native Importer from Joplin. By the way: If you want to export your OneNote Notebooks as a Zip for the native Import, you need to change the OneNote Website to English, or the export page is just white and broken.

Some to-do lists looked bad. Big images (e.g. from the phone) where not exported.

I opened both side by side, changed the order to alphabetical and look through them. Most work was copy/paste the very large images and Joplin ask you to resize them to 1920 px and that’s totally fine in my case.

Addons

As for Addons, I installed these three:

Save Folder

I like to have my files in Documents, not somewhere inside AppData.
You need to move the files to another place an then create a new shortcut with the –profile option:

C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Programs\Joplin\Joplin.exe --profile "C:\Users\username\Documents\whereveryoulike\joplin-desktop"

HexOS (Work in progress)

I’ve never used TrueNAS before and dived to many times into it to fix HexOS bugs, but it’s Beta software so I wont complain.

Hardware

This is what I use (a bunch of old Hardware laying around) and it’s probably not the smartest config.

  • Corsair 500 W PSU (too much, but cheap)
  • ASUS PRIME B450M-A II (mATX) (Fine!)
  • AMD Ryzen 3 2200G (no GPU required)
  • 2x 8 GB G.Skill Aegis (no OC for stability)
  • Noname Realtek RTL8125 2.5 Gb Ethernet Card
  • Akyga AK35BK case (screwing things in sucks but the rest is fine for the price)
  • A boot SSD (on the back) and two WD Red Pro 4TB 3.5″ (bottom and front) for the pool
  • No extra case fans. I have two open PCI-E slot covers (from a GPU) where fresh air comes in and exhausts through the PSU on top. CPU and HDD temps are (idle) between 30-40° C.

BIOS Settings

I would recommend these options:

  • Boot → Secure Boot → OS Type [Other OS) to disable it
  • Advanced → CPU Configuration → SVM Mode [Enabled] for Virtualization
  • Advanced → APM Configuration → Power On By PCI-E [Enabled] for Wake on LAN
  • Boot → Boot Configuration → Wait for F1 if Error [Disabled] because missing Keyboard/GPU

Shutdown and Wake on LAN

I live in a place with high power cost and turning it off when I’m not at home or sleeping makes sense. I know the drives don’t like that but If one fails, thats what the second is for, right?

Shutdown

Setup a CRON Job with the command:
/sbin/shutdown -P

Wake on LAN

  1. Search the name of your network adapter on the HexOS Dashboard
  2. Go into System –> Shell
  3. Give yourself admin rights with:
    sudo -i
    Then paste your truenas_admin passwort with CTRL+Shift+V
  4. Activate Wake on LAN on your Network device with:
    ethtool -s [adaptername] wol g
  5. Check with
    ethtool [adaptername]
    if Wake-on is g

More ideas

Your NAS should now react to Magic Packets but it might „forgets“ this setting, so someone suggested Init/Shutdown Scripts

A good tool on Windows to send wake ups is NirSoft’s WakeMeOnLAN commands

Power saving

First, move the System Data Set to the boot-drive (System –> Advanced Settings –> Storage –> Configure). Else, every few minutes, something would be written on the HDD’s and they wouldn’t go into standby.

But now the 25.10 problem: They removed S.M.A.R.T settings.

Maybe this can help: https://github.com/ngandrass/truenas-spindown-timer

Some thing to explore

  • Can I use my boot SSD for other things? Its too large just for a bit of NAS software.
  • One power saving solution was to disable SMART and run it on startup with a script
    Do the device names change on every startup?! Looks like, so my SMART scipts didn’t make sense. smartctl -n standby -t short /dev/sdx

Login with Fingerprint on Linux Mint

  1. apt search fprint
  2. sudo apt install fprintd
  3. sudo apt install libpam-fprintd
  4. sudo pam-auth-update
  5. Activate „Fingerprint authentication“ with the space bar, then Tab and Ok
  6. fprintd-enroll -f [finger]
    [finger] can be:
    left-thumb left-index-finger left-middle-finger left-ring-finger left-little-finger right-thumb right-index-finger right-middle-finger right-ring-finger right-little-finger
  7. fprintd-verify
    to try it.

https://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?t=408129

Can’t see GRUB

Whenever I install a Linux Distro, I can’t see the GRUB window.
The solution is to activate console mode.

  1. sudo apt update
  2. sudo apt upgrade
  3. sudo add-apt-repository ppa:danielrichter2007/grub-customizer
  4. sudo apt update
  5. sudo apt install grub-customizer
  6. Open Grub Customizer, go to General settings, Advanced
  7. Activate GRUB_TERMINAL console
  8. Close and save

https://wiki.ubuntuusers.de/GRUB_Customizer

Repaste ASUS Dual Geforce RTX 3060 12GB

My new used GPU was always running at 88°, fans 100% (3000 RPM is horribly loud) and never hit the power target.
I used Heaven Benchmark and got 102 FPS.

After replacing the dried out thermal paste, I’m maxing out the power target, Heaven goes up to 123 FPS and the fans are running around 2000 RPM to cool it down to 75°.

How to repaste

Prepare a nice workplace with a PH1 screwdriver, Isopropyl alcohol and something to wipe, a map where the screws go back in, new paste and maybe a coffee.
Remove the screws of the backplate
Remove the 2 yellow and 4 green screws. They’re not the same type. I assume the one down right voids your warranty.
Carefully open it up this way. The thermal pads and paste are sticky, so maybe wiggle just a little bit. Watch out for the cable (next picture).
Pull the cable from underneath the heat pipe so you can lay everything flat.
Clean up the mess from the manufacturer. I used a soft plastic card first for the big junks. Turn everything around to drop the old paste particles so they don’t stick to the thermal pads. Then use the Isopropyl alcohol to make it all shiny.
My thermal pads were still soft and sticky. I saw some videos on YouTube and no one replaced them… If you want, they were probably 3 mm thick before squishing them on the GPU.

Now apply some new paste (I like to spread it a bit because I assume the pressure is not the same than on a CPU). Put the cable underneath the heat pipe, align the screws and put it back together in reverse.